*****  Bongusto Ristorante, 5640 North Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33308 (954) 771-9635.

Let’s play Tony and Carmela Soprano…Bongusto is an “upsacle” white-table-cloth Italian restaurant…that reminds me of the “semi-fancy” joints that dotted the Brooklyn landscape in the 1960’s-1970’s….decor/ambiance/food/service-wise. Now stay with me…during a recent dinner, I expected Artie Bucco the owner of Nuovo Vesuvio to come walking out of the kitchen. I “kind of don’t think” that tee shirts and shorts are going to go over-big at this joint. Check Bongusto’s website www.bongustoitalian.com for menu/prices.

Bongusto only does dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5pm-10pm.

Now for the food story…very good. I really enjoyed (there were four of us), the veal parmigiana ($22.95), veal marsala ($23.95), chicken cacciatore ($22.95), fried calamari ($23.95), meat totellini in cream sauce ($20.95), grilled sword-fish ((26.95). The service was impeccable. The prices were surprisingly reasonable and all entrees came with a house salad and pasta side.

I am telling you, from the moment you step through the front-door…you will swear that you have “gone back-in-time”…or are on a “tv show’s production-lot.”

The next time you feel like putting on a pair of pants…give this joint a try.